17th - 21st March La Serena, Monfrague & Villafafila
On the return journey back up through Western Spain now and have to say at the outset that it's good to have a travelling companion in the shape of Mark along for the last few legs. Maybe something else to point out at the outset is that the moment we headed into inland Spain the weather and the light deteriorated vastly! I've done my best with the pics without taking away the true nature of the conditions (its very obviously still winter in the middle of Spain!)
Our first destination, the plains of
La Serena is a huge area of largely untouched 'steppe' land and with a total area of 1025 sq miles it is the largest piece of uncultivated land in Western Europe.
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The Plains of La Serena |
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The Plains of La Serena |
A wild and awe inspiring place but I suspect in the middle of Summer it'll be unbearably hot and this river, one of the main water sources in the area will almost certainly run dry.
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Rio Guadalefra, La Serena |
Quite rocky in parts too with some strange looking lichen covered outcrops
....there's that same grey sky again and that same strange bloke in my van!
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Great Bustards, La Serena, 17/03/15 |
Yep, a big place and some equally big birds. This is one of the best places in Spain for seeing Great and Little Bustards and we got an eyeful of both.
Shame the light was so dismal for the Great Bustards because they'd all just about got into breeding plumage - check out the 'tash on the prancing one!
This
Little Bustard was one of 2 males that were flying around together and calling ...chasing each other maybe? We concluded that it must have been some kind of territorial spat. The only pics I've ever managed of flying
Bustards anyway!
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Little Bustard, La Serena, 18/03/15 |
.... easier to photograph on the ground but even though these nicely posed males look distinctive it wasn't until we stopped the car and scanned the terrain that we saw them plus 30 or so of the much drabber females.
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Little Bustards, La Serena, 17/03/15 |
This is a rubbish pic of a flock of 20 or so
Great Bustards taking off. They were obviously agitated and it takes a lot to bother these giant 'turkey sized' birds but worried they were and with good reason.....
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flushed Great Bustards |
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Juvenile Spanish Imperial Eagle, La Serena, 18/03/15 |
In the distance we saw the culprit - juvenile
Spanish Imperial Eagle lording it over the plains and looking very menacing! It's a a way off in this pic but you can clearly see it looking down on those Turkeys! Like
Golden Eagles, Imperial Eagles will take young goats so a
Great Bustard .. why not?
We watched in awe as this monster cruised above both us and the Bustards. With a global population of circa 350 breeding pairs this is one of the world's rarest eagles -
more info here, and although I'd spotted one of the breeding individuals at
Donana (easy enough as they have scopes trained on the nearest ones), to stumble across one in a more wild environment was just awesome. This young bird came a bit closer and afforded some great views and half decent pics ...
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Juvenile Spanish Imperial Eagle, La Serena, 18/03/15 |
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Juvenile Spanish Imperial Eagle, La Serena, 18/03/15 |
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Juvenile Spanish Imperial Eagle, La Serena, 18/03/15 |
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Male Montague's Harrier, La Serena, 17/03/15 |
That was definitely the stand out moment of the trip to
La Serena. You don't see
Imperial Eagles or
Great Bustards every day but to see some dangerous interaction between the 2 was truly memorable but that wasn't all that this remarkable place had to offer. The day before, we had our first good views of
Montagues Harriers, a female and 2 males and one of them put on a very good hunting show...
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Male Montague's Harrier, La Serena, 17/03/15 |
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Male Montague's Harrier, La Serena, 17/03/15 |
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Male Montague's Harrier, La Serena, 17/03/15 |
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Male Montague's Harrier, La Serena, 17/03/15 |
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Male Montague's Harrier, La Serena, 17/03/15 |
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Black Bellied Sandgrouse, La Serena, 18/03/15 |
Nearby nr the small town of
Campanario, we had both
Black Bellied and
Pin Tailed Sandgrouse flying over at regular intervals ...
Unfamiliar to most casual birdwatchers,
Sandgrouse, as the name suggests are creatures of dry and dusty plains, deserts and other arid / semi arid parts of the world. Strong and fast fliers, as they have to be in order to seek out watering holes which can be many miles away from their nests, adult birds have the unique ability to store water in their belly feathers which they then use to 'drip feed' young chicks.
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Pin Tailed Sandgrouse, La Serena, 18/03/15 |
Other good birds here included a pair of Bonellis Eagle, Black Stork, Lesser Kestrel, Pallid Swift, 2 Egyptian Vultures and lots of Calandra Larks
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Calandra Lark, La Serena, 17/03/15 |
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Monfrague |
A faulty memory card did for all my bird pics from Monfrague but if I can get it fixed the 8 or so
Black Vultures we saw here should be worth the effort. In truth I'm not a huge fan (too many tourists) and I did a piece on the place last time I was here
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Villafafila, 21/03/15 |
With more bad weather forecasted (including heavy snow) it was time to start putting in some miles if we were to get anything at all out of the Pyrenees, but not before a return trip to
Villafafila, a series of lagoons set in steppe land nr
Zamora (Castilla y Leon).
Dense freezing fog did for any meaningful exploring last time around and the elements weren't much better this time ... grey skies and a howling North-easterly wind. It certainly wasn't sunny Spain!
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Villafafila, 21/03/15 |
Finding shelter, hats & gloves and hot tea was the order of the day for what turned out to be the last major birding site before we crossed back into France. Man it was cold! Got some good birds here though including 27
Great Bustards (distant), 2
Merlin, 4
Hen Harriers, c400
Avocet, c40
Ruff, c250
Black T Godwits, 2
Golden Plover, 1
Northern Wheatear, 6
Spanish Sparrows and plenty of ducks including 12
Wigeon and a curious looking female
Tufted Duck that was ringed on its bill as well as its leg ...not a
Ring Necked Duck because it has a tuft but maybe some kind of hybrid that's been marked out? It was the only decent bird pic I took such were the conditions!
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Tufted / Ring Necked hybrid, Villafafila, 21/03/15 |
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Tufted / Ring Necked hybrid, Villafafila, 21/03/15 |
A curious place with much dilapidation. Villafafila itself was pure 'shanty town' and there was a whole deserted village nr the reserve as well as several of the multi storey mud and straw pigeon coops that the area is renowned for.
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Multi storey pigeon coop, Villafafila |
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Villafafila through a bird hide! |
Sadly, poor weather and worse forecast cut short our stay on the border so we 'snuck' across the Pyrenees in a hasty fashion. In the snow nr the ski resort of
Formigal, both of us bothered by the glare from the white stuff and slightly anxious about the state of the road, we had a solitary
Alpine Swift, House Martins and a flock of
Goldfinch around the ski lifts and added a couple of new species for the trip - 40 or so
Alpine Choughs and 5
Snow Bunting - all from the van which we were both reluctant to stop and try for pics!
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Over the Pyrenees nr Formigal, 23/03/15 |
Back into France, the weather a little better but you know how it is at
the end of a long trip and after stacks of driving; Our combined energy
levels were low and home was calling. We did a few sites in the
French Pyrenees, Mark had a lifer in the shape of
Black Woodpecker in
La Foret de Cardeilhac plus some probable
Ortolan Buntings, 6
Brambling (another new species for the trip) at
Gresigne and 6
Dipper in the
Valle D'Ossau were the stand outs, and then a total of 6
Hen Harriers in miserable weather at
Narse de Lascols an added bonus with the latter site (a raised peat bog in the Auvergne) worthy of further exploration in the future.
So the trip ended with a flurry of new birds and more than a flurry of snow! 210 bird species in total which I'll list in my next post along with some pics that I couldn't fit into previous posts.